Past massive yet automated wrought-iron gates and down the long pebbled driveway carpeted with crisp golden leaves shed by tall trees that stand in line on either side of the slim long entryway, the entry to Stuart Castle can be described as nothing but delightfully impressive. And it gets better by far as a glimpse of the castle itself is soon sighted amidst bare branches, standing tall and proud flanked with fine turrets and elegant towers.

The driveway ends in a simple open hedged compound and as we step out of the car I stare up at the imposing structure, awed by its minimal but obviously aged grace. For a moment, one can be puzzled about the entrance into the castle, for there are two doors, one in the central body but suspiciously too small to seem as the main entrance of this castle now converted to a luxury boutique hotel, the other entrance, at the side of the castle’s right tower is definitely larger, but then, could the entrance be from a side?

Luggage unloaded, we await to be received, and a sense of uneasiness creeps in as I begin to ponder on whether there was any staff at all at this faraway corner of Scotland or if, a traveler’s nightmarish fears had suddenly come to life and we were indeed stranded, tired and forgotten on a late windy evening at the doorstep of a seemingly desolate and highly acclaimed haunted castle.

But thankfully there’s a sudden whirlwind of color that rushes out of the small central door and we are greeted with warm smiles, profound apologies at having been kept waiting and famed Scottish hospitality takes over as a young lady in bright traditional checkered attire welcomes us and ushers us into the castle and blessed warmth, through the side entrance, and thereby solving the mystery of the hotel’s entrance.

Strikingly different from the reception areas of most hotels, luxurious or otherwise, the hallway at the entrance of Stuart Castle has no formal counters or lavish lobbies or even a chair, just a flight of winding, steep yet wide stone stairs that take you straight to the next level, where in a small wood paneled room the hostess informs us that we’re the only guests for the night and have been given the castle’s best suite on the fourth floor, right at the very top of the castle’s second tower on the opposite side. And of course, there’re no elevators, so we are to climb to the top. And, she continued cheerfully, handing us bright carryalls, it may not be a great idea to tug our luggage to the top so why don’t we leave the luggage down and just take up all that we need for the night. Before everything she says settles in, she happily leads us on a grand tour of the castle, and thankfully, every misgiving is soon forgotten as we follow her through huge wooden doors and step back to the 15th century. Immense with heavy wood paneled walls, chandeliered ceilings and a massive fireplace at the far end, the dining room with its long, broad solid wood table flanked on either side with huge high-backed chairs taking center-stage delivers visions of the royal grandeur the castle must have once enjoyed in its heydays.

Very soon the style and architecture of the castle is revealed and its stark simplicity can only be admired. Both towers have winding stairs that lead from floor to floor, opening onto common rooms from either end on each floor. The stairs grow increasingly narrower and steeper as we ascend, and this apparently was a ploy for security, intending to protect the top of the towers from enemy attacks for as the enemy attempts to climb the steep stairs, guards lying in wait at the top could slice right through them as they turned round corners. A rather gruesome thought but frankly climbing those stairs with such images in mind can be rather spine-chillingly thrilling!

Anyway, the towers are linked to each other on each floor through the central body that connects to both towers. Above the dining room is the living room and here, yet again one is transported to days from ages ago. Here, luxury knows no boundaries as the huge fireplace takes the centre of the central wall and faces a large airy room bedecked with silk carpets, elegant paintings, tall lit candles placed at various quiet corners. Fabulous pieces of luxuriously comfortable antique furniture set seemingly casually around the room, lends warmth to the room’s richness. There are a multitude of coffee table books on the glorious at times gory history of Scotland, on its famed architecture, on its notorious royalty and much more. There are a variety of CDs to choose from and a good music system, there’s a drinks cabinet with a large choice of beverages and of course, there are slips on which guests are expected to note what they’ve chosen to drink, to be billed later.  You can play chess if you choose or help yourself to a game of cards or better still, step into the room next door and set yourself a game of billiards.

Above the living room is a large hall, simply set with broad benches, and this, our hostess informs us, is where the weddings often take place, for Stuart Castle is a favorite choice for destination weddings in the country.

There are just 8 guest rooms in the Castle, 4 in each tower, 4 are luxuriously endowed double rooms with attached bathrooms, while 4 are cozy, beautifully set suites, with dressing rooms, 4 poster beds, large armchairs before a lit fireplace (whose temperature can actually be controlled!), in fact, the entire works! And my suite was the grandest of all. Dressed in rich blue brocades, silken cushions and elegant antiques, I almost whooped with joy! Even if it were just for a night, it was a dream come true. A dream of being a princess with a grand room at the top of the ancient tower of a majestic castle.  It didn’t matter that the bathroom wasn’t really connected to the suite but at the end of narrow passage just to the left of the room, that is, until I was informed by our cheerful hostess that this suite of rooms was indeed the notorious room in which, centuries ago, a tragic death had occurred and not much later a poor local simpleton had fallen to his death apparently petrified by the unholy presence of ghostly spirits in the said room, and from then on the castle was declared haunted.  And my spirits were decidedly lower now. But only for a while as a hot bath, hot dinner, great wine, amazing desserts, delicious coffee, lovely music, and the crackling warmth of the fireplace had me nodding off in complete satisfaction as soon as my head hit the feather-down pillow.

Needless to say, the stay at Stuart Castle was exactly what dreams were made of, the kind of experience I had hoped for from my trip this fascinating country with its historical greatness.

The food is deliciously homemade, the service impeccably warm, the castle truly authentic in every sense of the word.
I had definitely not seen anything quite like it before. He stood regally right in the middle of the road, unflinching as the casual traffic deigned to navigate their way around him, and as our car approached I could’ve sworn he looked me straight in the eye for a split second before graciously bowing his magnificent set of horns in, what I would like to believe, one of the rarest welcomes I’ve ever had.

Goa, the land of sand and sea, warm beaches, friendly people and fabulous cuisine, and here I was welcomed amidst swaying coconut trees by a handsome bull as we drove to one of Goa’s favored resorts, the Taj Holiday Village.

Dense greenery skirt paved paths that lead to quaint Goan styled villas cozily tucked amid large billowing bushes and my villa’s balcony opened onto the bright green expanse of a golf putting course beyond which was an endless view of the serene Goan seas. But surprisingly, more than the comforts of space, the enriching views and the subtle luxury that bespeaks the Taj, I enjoyed the company of the goldfish that flitted around quite at home in its bowl on my windowsill! And that was just another of the firsts I had ever seen on a trip!

Afternoons at Goa have most of its shops closed and its streets literally empty as locals enjoy siestas and tourists head for a touch of sun on the beaches. Amidst the innumerable shacks that border Baga beach I found a table at a semi-shack semi-restaurant that seemed to be quite popular with most tables filled with a mix of tourists and locals, and I soon learnt why. Soaking in the fascinating view of shades of blue glinting under the sun’s strong gaze I had my first taste of crab meat fried in prawns at the Brittos, popular for it’s Goan and seafood specialties.

Spread out across the beach for as far as the eye can see are beach beds strewn with visitors from all across the world out to enjoy the Goan sun, constantly served hot snacks and cool drinks by locals carrying their goods in baskets across their backs.

As the sun sets the air cools down and the sensation of walking barefoot on sands still warm from the day’s heat while cool breezes play with your hair is quite amazing but hitting the streets around the Baga and Calangute beaches in the evenings was a greater revelation. Shops, alight with floods of colors, display their richest wares relentlessly attempting to entice the floating swarms of crowds that lazily sway by. Antiques and knick-knacks, bags and cool cotton outfits in unbelievable shades of bright colors are arrayed to grab attention and once in a while one even discovers a rare treasure amidst the flamboyant chaos.

Innumerable restaurants promising mouth-watering Goan, Indian and international fares dot the streets and most are packed with tourists who’ve probably had a long hot day stretched out on the beach. All sorts of music puncture the chatter filled air as many restaurants offer live entertainment, from traditional Rajasthani dance and song to locals belting out the Beatles with Goan flair.

Sitting at a table set right on the beach under a gloriously starlit sky, enjoying excellent Indian wine at the Souza Lobo as succulent batter fried squid and masala fried mussels tingle tastebuds with fresh local flavors of Goan masalas and reminisces of past happy moments were the apt accompaniment to the end of a beautifully relaxing day.

Freshly brewed coffee, fresh fragrant air, lilting morning bird calls and a rising sun lighting up the abandoned ship that rests seemingly forever by the beach is a great start to a day filled with lazy strolls down the beach, drenched in glorious heat, thirst quenched with tasty wines and never ending hunger pangs satisfied with delicious seafood and crusty Goan bread and a holiday never seemed this exclusive and refreshing.
Yes I belong to Kerala and yes I’m proud of that but it still took me till my 34th year before I finally had my first shot at an Ayurveda massage. Perhaps being on the heavier side with way too many stretch marks gifted from 2 healthy pregnancies has me a tone too shy at revealing too much skin.

Anyway, I doubt I would’ve ever attempted any such feat if I hadn’t been too pampered at Kumarakom Lake Resort where I recently spent a couple of gloriously relaxing days. A massage had never been on the agenda but before I knew what I was heading for the friendly doctor at the resort’s spa, Ayurmana, had me impulsively signing up for a full body massage in no time. I mean, I convinced myself, what could possibly go wrong? I’ve had a couple of Thai massages and they weren’t so bad and besides I was quite curious to know what was really so great about the Ayurveda massage, but then, as they say, curiosity killed the cat.

Needless to say I’m a sucker for history and ancient tales and the mystic setting of the Ayurmana was perhaps what stole my interest. And then I was led to this fantastic room with carved doors and wooden ceilings and which, I was told, was a part of the century-old traditional homestead that houses the resort’s spa, the Ayurmana. Complete with a large stone lamp at the entrance and a central courtyard around which the massage rooms are set, it was interesting to learn that this structure had been home to a family of Ayurveda practitioners and was taken apart piece by piece only to brought down to the resort and reassembled to its previous glorious form to continue its service to Ayurveda, having been devoted to the Science all of its existence.

Of course now I just couldn’t help but lose my heart. Until I was given a pair of skimpy throwaway panties and told to change. I waited. The young girl attending to me waited too. Patiently. And then it struck me, I was to change from all my clothes into just the panties. I backed up. There was no way I was going to strip that far. Especially in front of this young masseuse who obviously has never known what it is to carry extra ounces on her slim frame. I demanded at least a towel. She gave me an itsy bit of a thin cotton, something that would never have stretched anywhere around me so I backed up again. Finally she gave in and gave me a bath towel but she did so with a smile and a warning, the towel can be on for the time being but she would soon lay claim to it.

There was nothing I could do, it was way too late. I was stuck in this ancient room scented with warm oils, soft music playing on as a high wooden bed made comfortable with foam bedding awaited me. I was trapped.

I slipped into the bathroom, another open-roofed one just as in all the villas across the resort, and eventually came out, wrapping the towel tight around me and trying hard to appear cool and confident.

She sat me on a stool in front of a table upon which, amidst flowers, was a lit traditional lamp and a couple of burning incense sticks and then she began. And it was absolute paradise. Absolutely heavenly. I could physically feel my muscles relax as she deftly massaged my head, slowly moving down to my neck and shoulders and further on to my whole back and in some remote corner of my mind I was barely conscious of the towel slipping down.

All I could think was please don’t stop! But she’d stopped and I almost groaned aloud but I found that she’d stopped only to lead me to the high bed where she had me lie face down.

The strokes were strong and long and swept from end to end of my body and I couldn’t help myself, I was adrift with contentment as every muscle was attended to, as every inch of skin was indulged with rich oils. She had me turn around and I did so obligingly, every care thrown to the winds, the towel history now and all I can say is it was definitely worth it!

Much later, as I lay there totally relaxed, a wayward thought occurred, now how on earth was I going to get all the oil off me?? But there was a solution to that too. An Ayurvedic scrub with way too many ingredients than I would deign to remember was spread all over me and I was then told to shower.

That evening, relaxing with friends over some great wine and a greater view of the starlit sky reflected in the waters below, I happily thrilled in the cool breeze that belongs to the monsoons, guiltlessly allowing the chef to overfeed me way beyond my body’s needs at the resort’s seafood specialty restaurant, the Vembanad. I was feeling good and I even felt I was looking good as my skin seemed to softly glow, and then, suddenly, I found myself involuntarily yawning. Lethargy was slowly taking over my limbs and my mind. My whole being was finally giving in to the luxurious treatment it had received. That night I slept so well that I didn’t even need my usual bout of caffeine to rev me up in the morning!

So now I’m a believer. And yes I’m proud of it. All the talk that Ayurveda relaxes, rejuvenates and refreshes, well that’s not some talk at all, it’s absolutely true. And if it’s at a place that’s over a hundred years old set in one of the country’s finest resorts and if it’s by well-trained friendly masseuses then believe me when I say it just can’t get any better.

If looks can be deceptive then The Imperial triumphs in its deceit with its placid, simplistic white exteriors and sober gateway giving away impressions of a humble existence, but.. be sure to hold your breath, for within its so-called indifferent walls is a whole different world from a whole different era altogether.

Despite its strategic location on the immediate outskirts of Connaught Place right at the very heart of New Delhi, The Imperial manages to stay amazingly tucked away from the casual passersby’s instant visibility, and the tall palms and quiet greenery at its gates gently misleads you to expect a similar simplicity on the other side of its doors.

But the aromatically lovely foyer with its huge basins of fresh flowers welcomes you to a completely unexpected world. Visions of a faraway wonderland of royal luxuries and abundant extravagance surround you, for added to the opulent richness of silk carpets, liveried bellboys and luxuriously set antique furniture there’s even a flamboyant Chanel showroom bank opposite the Reception counter! Need I say more?! And of course the friendly and unbelievably hospitable staff merely adds to the equation so all you need to do is just relax and allow the pampering to begin.

The smiles are genuine and the friendliness is not tactful training results. You are escorted to your room and there you once more experience the joyous pleasures of unexpectedly having the best happily handed to you on a platter.

Hugely spacious with high ceilings, richly ambiguous with solid wooden floors and tastefully bedecked with elegant antiqued furniture, the rooms are a delight to be in. The furnishings are pure white, the linen is surprisingly matched with a rather flattering shade of brown, the fruits are exotic, the television is a large plasma, the white of the walls perfectly offset with select photos and sketches of a Delhi once been. And, the bathrooms are a whole different story altogether. Again space is the strongest feature here, the accessories are luxurious, the fittings, in theme with the room and in fact with the entire hotel, is graciously antiquated in style, and the towels I must add, are so marvelously thick and soft!

There is a whole array of restaurants to choose from when it comes to gourmet delights. And delightful they all are. 1911 is the multi-cuisine restaurant, simple in style yet offering favorites of several popular cuisines. Breakfast too is served here and the buffet is quite extensive, and at the risk of sounding repetitive, I must add, the staff is extremely attentive ensuring your comfort and satisfaction all the way. One can choose to stay in the cool indoors or bask in the Delhi warmth of March on lawns slowly recuperating the winter onslaught. And best of all, in case you’re in a rush and aren’t lucky enough to enjoy a relaxed breakfast, worry not, just pick a takeaway kit conveniently placed at the buffet and pack up whatever you want for a great breakfast on the road! And trust me you should definitely include the croissants, which are in fact baked piping hot right at the restaurant!

For those who love a hint of spice and the lure of Asian arts then dining at the award winning Spice Route Restaurant would definitely be a memorable experience. The cuisine is as good as it reads on the exotic menu and though the décor may seem a mite overdone to some it is definitely an aesthetic take away from the regal glamour of the rest of the hotel.

Be prepared for yet another surprise with Daniell’s Tavern, which, though decked with blue glass lamps and set on split levels is quite unlike its name for it doesn’t serve anything tavern-like at all but instead offers sumptuous tandoori specialties and yummy, perfectly prepared biriyanis! Settle in for a great Indian meal as musicians entertain with soft ghazals, creating an aura of how royalty may have dined in yesteryears.

Set away from the rest of the restaurants the San Gimignano is a quiet Italian restaurant that seems to have been added almost on an afterthought but serves fabulously scrumptious pizzas! Even the vegetarian pizzas are mouthwateringly delicious. And for those with a sweet tooth La Baguette is the place to be! The counter is literally packed with all sorts of baked goodies that making a choice can be quite difficult!

Without doubt The Imperial is one of my favorites, walking down its wide carpeted corridors set with heavily framed mirrors and paintings of life as had been a century or two ago, with carved antique tables and an occasional chair or two adorning the corners one feels transported to an age somewhere between the 16th and 18th centuries. Candles come to life every evening across every corridor, and taking the stairs literally makes me feel like a princess with its heavy balustrade and shining marble steps! Even the small yet cozy lift at the lobby seems from the grand old ages! It has to be confessed that staying here always makes it very easy to imagine what the lives of royalty must be like, especially during the days when the royalty ruled.

Right from the gates, where you’re apologetically yet politely requested to present your car’s boot up for inspection, the pampering takes off.

Not a moment is wasted as bellboys and doormen swarm around you to ensure you’re not kept unnecessarily waiting as you get through mandatory security and have your bags quickly yet efficiently screened at the porch. And in case you’re wearing sunglasses then you’re warmly presented with smiles and a soft cloth to clean your shades, which is something I must say, I just haven’t experienced elsewhere at all, and all this is before entering the hotel’s double doors.

Step into the lobby and the first thing that grabs your senses is the wonderful aroma that scents the entire hotel with an invigorating freshness, which apparently seems to be a signature feature across all ITC luxury hotels, for enter any ITC hotel and you’ll discover this same refreshing fragrance surrounding you.

The staff is perfectly courteous, kind and welcoming. And the welcoming doesn’t end with your checking in. You’re escorted (a rare treat as most business hotels leave you to your devices once you’ve checked in!) to your room that’s rich in décor and luxuriously facilitated with attractive knick-knacks and where a cool welcome drink awaits you! The suites are plush and spacious with separate living rooms and no comfort or thought is spared to ensure total relaxation in the bedroom. You’re even provided with a mini-stepper in case you want to work off a few calories in private!

Trust me, after a long day’s work and a hard battle against the notoriously tiring traffic of Mumbai, nothing can be more inviting than the lush comforts of a luxury guest room at The Maratha.

Unlike at most places, my favorite meal here, surprisingly, is breakfast! Maybe it’s because the wide sumptuous spread is laid out in the hotel’s large atrium, which doubles up as a 24 hour multi-cuisine restaurant, the Peshwa Pavilion, and which, in the mornings and through the day, is gloriously and naturally lit with streams of daylight, offering a perfect beginning to any day. Screened from prying eyes, the atrium sits discreetly behind the lobby and though the passages of each floor of the hotel look down to the atrium, latticed windows across the passageways provide adequate privacy. Through breakfast, you’re well attended to, cups constantly topped with your choice of steaming tea or coffee, stewards offering warm and fresh croissants carried around the tables in pretty baskets, waiters warmly remembering you from your previous visit and friendly chefs offering advice on better ways to enjoy your muesli.

There are four more restaurants in the hotel, each set around the atrium and each exclusively exotic in ambience and refinement. The cuisines at each are different from the other with each elaborate menu promising a different dining experience.

Perhaps the restaurant that stands out more from the others is the award-winning Peshwari with its array of succulent kebabs and mouthwatering dal bhukari, which you’re encouraged to delve into with your fingers, for, you’re politely told, the best way to enjoy Indian food is to have it with your fingers, so the tables have no set cutlery but of course you can always ask for a fork if you wish. And, every guest here is offered aprons instead of napkins so you can gorge away without worrying about spills down your front! The soft lighting and the cozy nooks of this restaurant create the perfect setting to a cuisine known to have been favored by royalty, however I guess I have to add, the seats at the low wooden tables could have been better. With no backs the seats are practically wide stools and don’t encourage guests to while around too long, over coffee or dessert. Perhaps that’s the intent, for almost every time you want a table you have to book well in advance, that’s how popular the Peshwari is!

The rich biriyanis at Dum Pukht have you floored the moment the dum’s seal is broken before you and the spicy aromas of the biriyani escape to entice your senses.

Urges for South Indian delicacies can be happily satisfied at the Dakshin and if you’re in the mood for grill then West View is the place to be with a unique buffet where you can pick, to your heart’s content, your choices of meats, seafood and vegetables from a wide and exotic raw spread, which are then grilled to your taste and served at your table.

Pan Asian offers you exotic flavors from across Asia with an extensive menu that presents the famed cuisines of China, Thailand, Mongolia, Korea and Japan.

And if you’re staying on their Club floor, nothing can be more relaxing than a long quiet drink furbished with rich snacks in the Club lounge during happy hours.

Everything at The Maratha is more than perfect except perhaps for the butler services, which can be a tad better. Intended to make your stay easier, the butlers here though seem to take rather longer than preferred to revert on any query and more so on requests for restaurant reservations! So my personal advice to anyone thinking of giving The Maratha a shot, enjoy the fabulous hotel with its wonderful service, just avoid depending on butler services, especially when all departments can be directly contacted at the touch of a button on your room phone.

Anyway, needless to say, the ITC Maratha is my favorite choice of stay in Mumbai, distinct with its own sense of style, this great hotel is one of the few that literally sets standards to luxurious living. I’ve stayed with them on a number of occasions and I’m yet to be disappointed, the concierge is helpful, the housekeeping is immaculate, and the guest rooms are well facilitated. What more could one ask for?

Soft breezes tease stray strands of hair off my face while the cool tanginess of the salted lime soda I sip douses out the clammy warmth that sticks to the skin, and with a happy sigh I sit back to enjoy a rare lazy afternoon on the deck of the seafood restaurant of Kumarakom Lake Resort, with just mother nature for company.

Strains of an old Beatles number plays softly in the background as I hungrily drink in the endless views of placid waters and lush greenery that stretch out all around me.

Coconut trees sway in gentle rhythm, their shadows dancing on a verdant stage set by the freshly washed grass of sprawling lawns interlaced with abundant bushes of brightly colored flowers that swing along in equal tempo and I realize that nothing could possibly be as heavenly as absolute nature in all its glory.

And then, at that very moment, heavy clouds gather suddenly and darkly, and with an unexpected loud roar the mirror-still lake is rapidly and incessantly pierced into a multitude of petite waves as a burst of showers rain down, drenching the air and chasing the humid heat away.

I feel greatly humbled that nature had deigned to reward me with such a magnificent performance for I love the rains; I love watching the rain. To me nothing can be more magical than a regular downpour. The harmony it creates as it falls with a steady beat. The air of romance it brings down with it. Its wet touch that washes away all that is impure to reveal all that is bright and fresh and colorful. Rain can magically lighten every dull dark mood; rain can draw you to higher unforeseen thoughts, it can lead you to deep speculations, revealing not just the brightness of nature but of yourself within you.

As the rains continue to reign an overwhelming sense of awe overcomes me leaving me virtually breathless as I gaze mesmerized while nature persistently cleansed, washing all in its path to reveal true colors and pure beauty.

Green is greener, blue is bluer, the air is fresher, even birdsong seems sweeter as the rains pour on, declaring the unrivaled supremacy of Kerala’s famed monsoons. And I’m infinitely glad I took a moment away from the mad mundane rush of life to experience the exuberance of nature that we so often take for granted.

And then, just as suddenly as the rains fell they cease. Within moments all that remains is the occasional drip of gathered drops on leaves and down the tiled roofs of the resort’s quaint villas. But in its wake remains the freshness the rains had recreated. The air is several degrees cooler, the atmosphere is lighter, and the skies remain pregnant with the promise of rains yet to come.

As I sit there, feeling totally exuberated; I am pampered with more luxury but of a different kind. Steaming appams and karimeen pollichathu! Slowly spreading open the banana leaves that wrap the fish in this popular local delicacy; I let the aromas of rich spices and thick coconut milk escape. The fish is soft and succulent and melts away with each bite, leaving behind delicious flavors and relaxation moves on to a gastronomic level.

With a final swipe I clean the thick gravy up with the last bit of appam and slowly relish that delicious last bite, trying to make it last as much as I possibly can. I’m not left with much time to regret the end of a fabulous lunch though, for just as I finish the main course a huge platter of assorted deserts is set before me. Immaculately flavored tiramisu, exotic payasam and the yummiest creamiest of brownies ever, and all powers of self-control are lost as I give in to the urge and indulge shamelessly.

Finally as I sip a hot cup of tulsi flavored green tea in a formal conclusion of a great meal that can only be called a feast, nature offers an encore, and a soft slow drizzle begins to fall with gradually increasing gusto and the entire experience was way too much for my senses to handle for on a sudden and unpredictable impulse I step towards the deck’s railings and lift my face up, my eyes involuntarily shutting as the sudden wet coolness refreshes my flushed skin. I stand there allowing, welcoming the onslaught to bear down on me. And as the torrents pour on relentlessly, I feel its touch on every part of me, and I feel cleansed, refreshed, relaxed and unbelievably satisfyingly happy.

If asked where I would choose to stay if I needed to chill out then I would definitely say the Taj Exotica without a second thought!

A heavenly spread of sprawling grounds with immense trees shading the driveway that leads right up to the lobby on the second level of an immense mansion which, then, looks out on to the well-manicured golf course that, in its turn, skirts the golden warm beaches of south Goa!! Sounds almost too good to be true, doesn’t it? But trust me, nothing much could possibly be more exotic than the Taj Exotica.

Just a mere 45 minutes from the airport, Taj Exotica invites you to plunge right into the depths of its opulent seclusion. Its fine selection of huge homely rooms and villas fringe the entire stretch of the resort’s immense golf course, and is thoroughly luxuriated with that very individual panache that can only belong to the Taj alone, leaving you hopelessly spoilt for choice.

Cozy little balconies look out onto impeccable gardens or lead to cute private pools from villas that are traditionally Goan in style with sloping tiled roofs, thick walls and alcove windows and.. surrounded with lush greenery. Hammocks rock gently in many a nook and corner, and the entire mood of the resort is so relaxing it’s almost sleepy! Moreover, if you try a massage at the Jiva spa then the relaxation sinks even deeper, if that could be possible!

The food is amazing. The Lobster Shack, which sits on the far end of the golf course and looks right into the sea, offers a great range of fresh seafood cooked to your taste while the Miguel Arcanjo offers the yummiest pizzas ever. More interested in Goan fare? Then try a shot at the Goan fish curry with local Goan breads at Allegria finished with a slice of bebinca on ice-cream, believe me, it wouldn’t fail to impress! Be seated at one of their restaurants and be prepared to be pampered to the hilt for as soon as you place your order the chefs pile you with scrumptious offerings one after the other making sure you couldn’t be more satisfied.

But most of all it’s the service that’s the real icing on the cake. Here the Indian saying that ‘a guest is god’ is obviously taken straight to heart as guests are always greeted with a smile, and amazingly each and every guest is addressed by name by all executive staff! One can’t help but feel godlike when treated with such honest friendliness and utmost courtesy.

Every whim, every fancy is met and every personal taste is taken with great gravity for at the Taj Exotica, the resort and its personnel take it upon themselves to ensure your stay with them is truly memorable.

Reality takes a dive into the backseat as you step out of the Jaguar’s plush interiors to head straight into a fairytale when you’re led across an aged gatehouse and up squeaky box steps before being settled into the soft velvet cushions of a graceful horse drawn carriage!

As the horse’s hooves clatter across the cobbled road that winds up a hill shrouded with wild trees and mystery, visions of haunted castles atop aloof hills from long forgotten movies suddenly encroach your thoughts.

The ride is short though and through sweeping branches of proud trees, glimpses of white can occasionally be seen, but it is only when the horse draws to a stop right at the palace’s grand entrance that the magnificence of Falaknuma Palace truly astounds you. All apparitions of haunted dreary castles then vanish as you stare up the imposing structure aptly titled ‘palace in the sky’, dressed in stark virgin white yet exuding the soft warmth of welcome.

Garlanded and photographed, a sense of self-importance floats around you as you mount the stairs and enter the beautiful foyer, complete with clever seemingly multi-dimensional murals across its walls and ceiling heralding the seasons and a grand marble fountain in the center held aloft by graceful eternal angels.

And from then on, you’re lost. Lost in the magical mystical world of fairytales, history and unbelievable affluence.

Every nook and corner of this sprawling mansion has been strictly upheld as a commemoration of the luxurious grandeur it had been built to own and proudly display. Every expansive room, every garden, every hallway and even the royal bathrooms have been maintained in their original style and presence with clear and correct perfection, transporting you straight into the past, to the glorious days when the Nizam lived and ruled from this beautiful palace he used to call home.

Stepping into the resort’s reception, painstakingly displayed as it once had been, the Nizam’s study, one can very well imagine the Nizam sitting at his desk signing important decrees while twirling the famed Jacob’s diamond, which he had notoriously been known to use as a paperweight!

For history buffs the Falaknuma Palace sports a host of delicious surprises. With its vast library that proudly holds first and early editions of various renowned titles, to the grand suites once graced by the British sovereign, I follow the resort’s historian as he religiously rambles anecdotes right from the ambitious creation of the palace by a nobleman who went bankrupt in the process and sold his representation of heaven on earth to the one man who could buy it, the wealthiest man in the world, the Nizam of Hyderabad. Believed to have been instantly charmed by the palace the Nizam set up home here and one can easily understand why. Every inch of the palace is thoroughly thought out. Even the imposing grand marble staircase has been designed to ensure that one doesn’t tire as one climbs its gilded steps. No luxury has been spared. Right from the brilliant green of the legendary Jade Room, one of the better known reasons of the palace’s renowned fame, with its rare collection of precious gems and art, Belgian cut glass exquisite chandeliers and a breathtaking view of the city to the seemingly endless banquet table that seats a 101 guests at a time with specially designed acoustics that allows conversations to be heard from one end of the table to the other, in fact it is believed that the Nizam could listen in on the conversations of all his guests from his place at the center of the table! Simply put, the palace bespeaks boundless luxury. The Durbar Hall resonates in its splendor, the Queen’s suite remains a faithful representation of what it once was with its luxurious sitting room and grand bedroom including its silk lined wardrobes and the royal bathroom with its ancient showers!

The impeccable gardens of the central courtyard host guest rooms on either side and the resort’s restaurants nestle at the other end. Sitting with a cool drink on the balcony of the Gol Bungalow at the extreme end of the palace, and enjoying dusk settling in, it doesn’t take much for one to imagine how the royal ladies must’ve relaxed during their heyday. The restaurants, though, compared to the rest of the palace could perhaps have been better proffered in ambience and cuisine but one can hardly complain, especially when engulfed in the luxurious comforts of the high ceilinged opulent guestrooms with their venetian chandeliers and tapestries painstakingly created from copper yarn. And the choices are immense. From the Grand Presidential Suite that literally befits royalty in its offerings to the Royal Suites and Palace Rooms, Falaknuma Palace ensures all its guests gets a feel and taste of the grandeur the palace’s previous residents had once enjoyed.

But what really caught me unawares though, was the revelation that for several long and trying years the palace had been shut down and left to the cruel hands of fate and ruin. As one takes in the magnificence the palace now enjoys it is impossible to imagine that this beautiful creation had once been in a complete state of total disrepair and much of it had to be redone, rebuilt and refurbished to what it used to be with only history, photographs and the royal family’s willing assistance to back up on. Without doubt, the unfailing determination to restore an important element of India’s glorious history has given us the opportunity to feel great pride in belonging to a country where a palace was built in the sky, making heaven a place on earth!

 
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